Friday, November 29, 2013

Canyons and Wolves



Sand Canyon. Photo: Urjasi
Have you ever hiked through canyons in the moonlight? It's highly recommendable.

See this? Now imagine looking at this in the moonlight. The alien-mushroom-like rocks bathed in a pale moonlight, and silhouettes of leafless limbs of trees dancing in the dark. 


Now add the silence. Sprinkle some brilliant stars and oh - there goes a meteor with a fiery tail! And oh - that's a satellite - it's moving too slow for a shooting star. And yes! THAT is a shooting star!


Indian ruins. Photo: Urjasi
I was clambering around Sand Canyon with Steve on my birthday. It's part of the Canyons of the Ancients National Monument, with trails through sandstone canyons and ancient Indian ruins. The ruins are ancestral "puebloan" archaelogical sites. 

Pre-Puebloan people called "Basketmakers" had lived in this area around 1500 B.C. Primarily hunter-gatherers, they excelled in basket-making. By 750 A.D. they had set up square-roomed "pueblo" style villages, farmed and created pottery. At some point of time, perhaps because of dwindling natural resources, they migrated away. Eventually the Ute and Navajo people came into this area, followed by European settlers who set up farms and ranches.

Sand Canyon. Photo: Urjasi
There is a popular 6.5 miles trail (one way) that goes from Sand Canyon to McElmo Canyon.I followed Steve and didn't pay much attention to any trail map. But you can find trail maps and more information here.
Sand Canyon, moonlight and evening star. Photo: Steve White
Silhouette. Photo: Urjasi

At dusk we found a rock to lean against and watched the last of the colors of the setting sun. We watched the evening star come up. Steve reminded me that it's a planet [Yes, Steve, but evening star sounds more charming]. Over gummy candies we wondered if the morning star and evening star was one and the same. [Google confirmed that both names are for the planet Venus].


"Wolves are predatory creatures, programmed to kill when possible. They would kill even when they are not hungry." I don't remember how we got on to the topic of wolves. Steve's a cello playing biologist and has a wealth of knowledge to share about animals and bugs. 

Wolves are also a keystone species - a species that has a disproportionately large effect on its environment and play a critical role in maintaining the structure and health of an ecological community. What happens to them affects many other organisms in an ecosystem. In the recent years wolves have been constantly under the threat of being delisted from the Endangered Species Act (ESA) in the US.  Earlier this year, the US Fish and Wildlife Service proposed to remove all Endangered Species Act protections for most of the gray wolves across the United States.

The US Fish and Wildlife Service argues that gray wolves do not need protections offered under the ESA anymore because their population has sufficiently recovered and they are not at risk of being extinct now or in the future. Supporters of this proposition also argue that the places where the gray wolves currently roam, are already protected within national parks, like the Yellowstone.

Last year, on December 6th, the alpha female of Yellowstone’s Lamar Canyon pack, an iconic matriarch, was shot and killed, during a rare venture outside the park. The tracking collar she wore showed that she stayed inside the park 95% of the time.This is the same Yellowstone National Park where wolves were virtually wiped out in the 1920s and reintroduced in the ’90s. [Read more here].

The extinction of wolves in Yellowstone had profound impact on its overall ecosystem. Scientists found that lack of wolves led to a boom in elk population that grazed on young shoots of aspen, and as a result of that, the number of aspen trees declined. The willow population suffered too, causing a decline in the number of beavers in the park. Beavers matter to us - they build dams that keep rivers clean and keep them from drying up. A 2001 study (PDF) found that the moose population grew five times its normal size and demolished woody vegetation where birds nested. As a result, several bird species were eliminated as well. With wolves gone, coyotes preyed on pronghorn almost to the point extinction. Ultimately,  wolves protect fragile ecosystems against climate change. [10 Reasons We Need Wolves]

Restoration of wolves in Yellowstone cost about $30 million, but it brought in $35.5 million annual net benefit to the area surrounding the park.


Federal public hearings on wolf delisting have been underway at four locations, starting with Denver, CO on 19th November. Environmentalists argue that the decision to delist gray wolves is political, rather than being based on science, and may open doors for delisting other species.

The Defenders of Wildlife explain on their website why they are opposing the delisting proposal:
  • Gray wolf recovery is not complete, and the decision could derail recovery efforts in some areas where it has barely begun — among them, Pacific Northwest, northern California, Colorado and Utah.
  • Delisting would turn wolf management over to the states and the track record of that hasn't been great for other species.
  • Montana, Wyoming and Idaho, where wolves have been delisted, are not managing wolves well, and are instead driving their population down.
  • Other species, like the bald eagle, American alligator and the peregrine falcon were declared recovered and delisted only when they occupied a much larger portion of their former range and gray wolves deserve the same.
What does "recovery" mean for the authorities determined to delist gray wolves? Are they only looking at numbers in terms of their recovery, or do they consider the health and potential of the said population? How long would it take to list gray wolves back under the ESA if the need was to arise? Evidently, it takes a while for policies and protections to be finalized and implemented...

Supporters of delisting, such as filmmaker David Spady screened his documentary the same week of the public hearing in Colorado, focusing on the economic and safety concerns of rural communities and ranchers: "There are certain predators that don’t mix well with populated areas, and most of the lower 48 is populated... It’s not like the backwoods of Alaska or northern Canada. We’re populated.”

In the Colorado hearing, a 7 year old spoke up: “Will I ever see a wolf in Colorado? I oppose your plan because no one will ever see a wolf in Colorado and they will be extinct.”

The public commenting period has been extended to December 17. Tell the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service what you think about their proposal to delist wolves. Submit your comments online: http://www.defenders.org/national-wolf-emergency/lower-48-wolf-delisting-comments

Monday, November 11, 2013

Mountains to Climb, Ships to Save


October came, and with it came restlessness. I love New York City, but once fall sets in, my feet itch to climb dirt and rocks, my nose twitches to sniff country air, and my taste buds crave farm-fresh apples that I can dip in crunchy peanut butter.

I managed to fit in a couple of hikes in October, both at a stone's throw from the city.

Breakneck Ridge 

 

Rising between the towns of Cold Spring and Beacon in the Hudson Valley, Breakneck Ridge has many summits. The highest one peaks at 1,260 feet. A 3.7 mile hike scrambling up and down rocks offers breathtaking views of Storm King Mountain, Bannerman's Castle and the Hudson river.

Take the Poughkeepsie-bound Metro North train from Grand Central Station to Cold Spring and walk on Rt 9D towards the Breakneck Ridge trailhead. I went on a weekend, when the train also stops at the "flag stop" station of Breakneck Ridge. Be sure to sit in the first car and let the conductor know that you're getting off at Breakneck Ridge.



Just before the tunnel on Route 9D, you’ll find the marked trailhead on the right, next to an overflow parking lot. You can grab a trail map from the box at the trailhead or print this trail map from the NYS Parks Department. We followed the white trail to the red, and on to the yellow that loops back to Rt 9D.

With a name like Breakneck, and reviews that varied about the strenuousness of the hike, I wasn't sure what to expect. I went with a group through REI. What I got was a brilliant day with blue skies and warm sun, and loads of fun scrambling up rocks. The scrambling starts right at the beginning of the trail, and it goes on until the yellow trail gradually descends through the woods. You don't need climbing gear, but good hiking boots with ankle support will save the day, and if you have a friend who can give you a hand or a push if needed, that would be awesome.

The consensus in our group was that it qualified as a moderate/intermediate hike. It was supposed to take 6 hours with breaks, but it took us about 5 to complete the loop. I would have easily stretched it to 8 because I like to nap when I get to the top of a mountain.

Minnewaska State Park 

 

While Breakneck Ridge satisfied my craving for dirt and rocks, Minnewaska came with winding country roads, farm fresh apples, the kitschy village of New Paltz, and spectacular colors on a misty day. The drive takes one and a half hours, one way, without traffic delays. There a couple of easy, short hikes you can do, or you can combine them with a longer trail.  

The Minnewaska Lake loop is beautiful and an easy 3-mile loop, hugging the lake and framed by pine trees and sassafras. The glassy lake set in white conglomerate cliffs mirrors the sky and fall colors, and the the carriage road trails offer many overlooks with views of the mountains, cliffs and the lake. A short walk from the parking lot and across the Peters Kill Stream, is the Awosting Falls.  Have a little lunch by the falls, dip your toes, throw some sticks into the water for your four-legged companion if you have one, and then continue on for a longer hike.


It's hard to go wrong with any trail in Minnewaska. I wanted to take the Gertrude's Nose Loop/Millbrook Mountain Trail, but a persistent drizzle made things slippery, so we chose a wooded trail with more shade and less climbing. The yellow blazed Mossy Glen Trail to the left of the parking lot takes you through Hemlock and Mountain Laurel. The footbridge across Peters Kill was washed away. We watched April navigate the shallow stream effortlessly as we tried to find the best route that wouldn't involve wading through water. Unless the stream is flooding, you can cross it fairly easily.

The trail stays close to the river for quite some time until it meets with the blue-blazed Blueberry Run Trail, which climbs steadily through mountain laurel and blueberries. We were a bit late for the blueberry season. It made me miss the summer hikes in New Hampshire and Alaska where we would snack on fists-full of wild blueberries on our hikes. I made a mental note to come back during blueberry season next year.

The Blueberry Run Trail will gain in elevation and lead to panoramic views at  Castle Point. I believe you can get a peek at the cliffs of Getrude's Nose. We didn't complete the loop as it was getting chilly under the steady drizzle and dusk was setting in. To get a complete description of this trail, click here.


We headed to the village of New Paltz, in search of warmth and food. We had a little detour at an old record shop and the local chocolatier. Our search for a warm place with good food first took us to Rock da Pasta. With high hopes we sat at the bar on high chairs that had guitar-shaped backs. We waited for fifteen minutes at the bar, without being asked about a drink, much less food. We watched a flustered waitress take meals out and a chef who looked quite unhappy. So we took photos of ourselves on the chairs with guitar-shaped backs and headed over to the no-frills burger joint a few doors up. 

The mushroom burger impressed Eduardo and Laura (they swore it was one of the best they'd had), the sweet potato fries were perfect, and my cheesy chili fries earned me back any and all calories I might have shed on the hike. April was fast asleep on the way back - the sign of a contented dog. It was the perfect end to a fall weekend.

 









Meantime, in the Arctic...


October didn't go as well for 28 environmental activists from Greenpeace, a freelance photographer and a freelance videographer, who had staged a peaceful protest against the Gazprom Arctic drilling platform Prirazlomnaya on September 18th. Two of the activists tried to climb the side of the platform to hang a banner. Within a day, Russian security services swooped down from the sky, on to the deck of the Greenpeace ship Arctic Sunrise, and seized the ship and its crew at gunpoint. It's nearing two months now, and the entire crew of the Arctic Sunrise - the #Arctic30 - are detained in Russian prison. They all face "hooliganism" charges. 

Hooliganism charge? What does that mean?

The charge carries a maximum 7-year jail sentence. Previously, the activists were charged with piracy, which carried a maximum of 15 years in prison. But then Putin announced that he didn't think they were pirates... but apparently, they are hooligans, under Russian law. Hooliganism under Russian law is defined as: "A gross violation of the public order which expresses patent contempt for society, attended by violence against private persons or by the threat of its use, and likewise by the destruction or damage of other people's property." (Article 213 under Russian criminal code.)
According to Russia, the activists committed a crime under international law by trying to "seize" an oil platform. 


Let's deconstruct that. 

  • Did the activists commit a gross violation of public order? Which one? 
  • Did they express contempt for society? (I fail to see how peacefully protesting against drilling for oil in the Arctic, which will undoubtedly impact marine health and contribute towards climate change, is a contempt for anything other than unsustainable greed for oil.)
  • We know for a fact that they did not use violence or threat of violence.
  • They did not commit or threaten to commit damage or destruction of property. (I also fail to understand how 2 unarmed activists trying to hang a banner can "seize", damage or destroy an oil platform).
  • As for a "crime under international law," for the hooliganism charge to apply, the alleged offense must happen on Russian territory. Greenpeace argues that the Arctic Sunrise was in the Exclusive Economic Zone. Also, under international law, countries have no right to seize each others' ships or people in international waters based on hooliganism charges. (See more here.)

So what the hell is happening? Why are 30 peaceful activists still detained? 

 I was looking for legal clarity, and this article provided some insights: http://ow.ly/qGeun.

It says that according to the "Protocol for Combating Unlawful Acts against the Safety of Fixed Platforms on the Continental Shelf" the activists can be charged for trying to capture or establish control over the oil platform, or for intimidating the people on it. It also states that the incidence happened in waters under Russian territory and Russian law enforcement authorities had the legal right to extend jurisdiction over the "offenders" under statute on "Violating the Laws of the Russian Federation on the Continental Shelf and Exclusive Economic Zone of the Russian Federation."

Aside from the fact that under the 1999 International Convention on Arrest of Ships, the Arctic Sunrise (and its crew) should be released immediately if it provides enough security (aka, money, like a bail), let's take a moment here and think about what Russia is alleging. Even if it is invoking existing laws, it is arguing, in essence - 4 inflated boats that left the Greenpeace ship towards the Gazprom platform, 2 unarmed activists that tried to crawl up a oil platform to hang a banner protesting against drilling, and the remaining crew of the Arctic Sunrise who stayed in their ship - intimidated, threatened, or captured the oil platform. (Dramatic pause)

I could go on and on about this. I could dig up more legal facts and argue this case right in this blog. But, this is a blog. Blogs must be short. People don't have time and patience to read too much these days. Understandably, not everyone gets deliriously excited about international law. Furthermore, others who know more than me have done an excellent job of chronicling the entire saga. So... I will leave you with some ideas about what you can do to help and links that you can visit, if you want to know more.

Whatever you do, please do not turn your face away from what's happening with the Arctic 30. Russia must know that an entire civilization of peaceful activists are behind the Arctic 30 and we are not going to stop asking for their release.

What can you do?


Send a message to the local Russian Embassy right now.
Send a message to the Russian Ambassador
Take a climate action. Honor the Arctic 30.
Follow Greenpeace International and their ED Kumi Naidoo on Facebook for regular updates.

Learn more:


Recent interview with the lawyer representing the activists.
Timeline of events that led to the imprisonment of the #Arctic30
Latest updates from Greenpeace, including footage of their capture by Russian authorities
Updates and messages from the 30 activists currently detained by Russia about what they are going through.
Meet the Arctic 30